World-class cross-country skiing at Paul Smith’s VIC

Upgrades in recent years contribute to a improved experience

By Tom French

As a volunteer groomer at Higley Flow State Park, I feel a little guilty about writing a piece on cross-country skiing at Paul Smith’s Visitor Interpretive Center (VIC), but everyone needs variety, and it’s good to keep an eye on the competition.

The VIC was first established in 1989 by New York State to provide nature trails, tourist information, educational programs, and exhibits to the public.  The Newcomb facility opened in 1990.  Managed by the APA, funding was eliminated by the state in 2010.  The Newcomb property was transferred to SUNY ESF (College of Environmental Science and Forestry), and Paul Smiths College agreed to operate the northern facility which was already on their land and leased to the state. 

Ongoing upgrades

Since reopening the center in the summer of 2011, the VIC has experienced a series of upgrades including wider trails to accommodate skate skiers, a biathlon shooting range, and several miles of new trails including competition loops with “competition-grade” slopes near the college-side of the property – part of an initiative to attract winter sport athletes to the college.  

In 2023, the VIC opened a new backcountry ski area on Jenkins Mountain with three trails cleared to 12-foot widths.  The VIC now boasts over 25 miles of trails in the 3000-acre area – a substantial addition when compared to a Nancy Bernstein map in a 2004 article by Explorer founder, Dick Beamish.

It had been a number of years since I visited the VIC, though I have many great memories – standing inches from a wolf in the auditorium (a wolf rescue center was visiting from out west), listening for owls on an organized, full-moon snowshoe hike, blazing through powder on what is now a well-groomed Jenkins Mountain Road, and snowshoeing many times with the kids.

When I visited again last February, I was pleased to discover several electric vehicle charging stations, and I was envious of the PistonBully snow groomer in the shed near the back of the Frank M. Hutchins Lodge, the main building.  A dozen kids were playing Steal the Flag on skis behind the lodge.  Adults were sitting in comfy chairs in two grand lean-tos and enjoying the warmth of a fire.

Making the most of scarce snow

As most know, 2024 was a bearish year for snow, but a couple Alberta clippers and some lake effect salvaged Presidents’ Day weekend and part of the winter break before warmer temperatures and another winter rain returned to the Adirondacks.

Knowing we had only a limited winter window, I met my friends Doug and Susan Miller for some exploration.  They had not been to the VIC since recent improvements either.  Doug was very impressed by the ski and snowshoe rental area (that doubles as a natural history display in the summer). 

From the back side of the lodge, we started toward Route 30 on Logger’s Loop, a trail that circles the property for 4.5 miles with multiple opportunities to shorten your outing and explore the interior.  The trail was immaculately groomed – wide enough for skaters with a perfect track set.  I was wearing my waxables, had ironed in some blue glide the night before, and corked in a perfect kick.  It was a much-missed, dream-come-true ski.

After paralleling the highway for a half mile, we veered onto the Heron Marsh Trail (via a short service trail) and descended to the bridge over Shingle Mill Falls, the outlet for Heron Marsh.  Heron Marsh has a history as a water reservoir, perhaps as early as the mid-1850s, and the Malone Palladium reported in 1890 that “Mr. Smith… completed a new mill (with) one of the latest improved shingle machines.” The dam is just below the bridge.

‘Wide and well-groomed’ trails

 We continued along Logger’s Loop for a quarter mile to check out the rock climbing quarry (closed to the general public) before turning onto Easy Street, another wide and well-groomed trail.  Shortly after passing Skidder Trail, we cut across a service trail to the snow-covered bog bridge through Heron Marsh.  St. Regis Mountain appeared to the left with the VIC above the swamp on the hill to the right.

After ascending the narrow trail out of the marsh, we skied onto a section of the Jenkins Mountain Trail for a nice downhill to a gazebo complete with a Little Library where we parted ways with Susan.  She had volunteer duties at BluSeed Studios, a Community Arts Center in Saranac Lake.

The gazebo is on the northern side of Logger’s Loop which includes several interpretive signs regarding forest management and timber harvesting.  Doug and I followed the trail west.  At the top of a hill, we turned onto Fox Run.  Frankly, we were just exploring and had no idea where we were going, though Doug was trying to lead us to the black-diamond Esker Trail (now the Bob Axtell Trail, named after the former Paul Smiths and St. Lawrence University Nordic Coach).

Uphills and downhills

The trail ascends 200 feet.  Views of Jenkins and St. Regis Mountain open through the trees along with Long and Black Ponds and the actual, 10-mile St Regis Esker that reaches from around the southern side of St. Regis Mountain, splits Upper St. Regis Lake from Spectacle Ponds, hosts the buildings associated with Topridge, and hugs Long and Black Ponds before meandering off across Route 30 to the north of Mountain Pond.  It is clearly visible in New York State Lidar Data.  

After switchbacking down the steeper southern slope, the trail sweeps into the new biathlon stadium.  We skied by the shooting range, north, to the Core Loop Connector.  It bobbed down and up to a junction with the northern side of Logger’s Loop where we had skied earlier.  

The western hilly side of the VIC had kicked me.  I relished the downhill toward the Lodge.  We detoured onto the Barnum Brook trail to check out the Forest Megaphone.  It was visible through the trees.  Lying down inside, I was treated to sounds of the nearby babbling brook, the wind in the trees, the knocking of branches, and the voices of nearby explorers.  If you’re lucky, you might catch a woodpecker hammering or songbirds chittering from a tangle of underbrush.

A place worth returning to

The VIC offers 18 miles of groomed trails with 12.5 miles suitable for skate skiing.  Four miles are labeled as snowshoe trails plus the 9-mile trail to the summit of Jenkins Mountain.  Ski and Snowshoe rentals are available in the lodge which is open daily during the ski season from 9 to 5 except on some holidays.  Trails are open from dawn until dusk.  An adult day pass cost $20, ages 5 – 17 are $10, children under 5 are free.  Seniors 65+ or military receive a $5 discount.  Access to the trails is free from April to Dec. 1.